Fat Asian Baby

At long last and just in time for the last day of the Jewish Frying Holiday, an ode to fried food in today's Food Section.

"It does everything you want cooking to do. It makes food crisp, tender, gorgeous and golden. The combination of moistness and crunchiness when you bathe fish in hot oil is incomparable, and vegetables are never more appealing than when they're fried with a light batter.

Grilling is fun, and appeals to our primitive side; it's the essence of summer. Frying, on the other hand, is civilized, delicate and more like a winter sport."

Now that's what I'm talking about.